Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
